And from the deck chair...

April 20, 2022  early morning, Galtness Battery on Shapinsay, Orkney

 

The ignored WWII sites on our 2022 Orkney sojourn should be mentioned, at least in general.  These are everywhere around the Scapa Flow anchorage.  And as we discovered, on the approaches to Wide Firth and Kirkwall.  

Had we had the time, we certainly would have visited the South Isles of Hoy and Flotta and the installations on Mainland Orkney, like the Ness just south of Stromness.  Orkney's war museums, abandoned airfields and shore emplacements are interesting in their own right.  In particular, we wanted to view the original wooden camp buildings (1938) and the landscape mural painted at Ness Battery by AR Woods.  But we did not have that luxury. 

April 21, 2022 Mural at Invergordon Train Station

 

Tradeoffs to outer islands (north or south) had to be calculated in terms of whole day trips, given travel between islands is by ferries that ply on thin daily schedules.  In lieu of the South Isles WWII sites, we opted for a day trip to Eday, plus an overnight stay on Sanday.  Both have large Neolithic cairns that were fairly high on the A list.   

As it turned out, we would be treated to murals associated with the World War at Invergordon Train Station on Scotrail heading back to Glasgow and our flight home.  So our tradeoff ended up being the right one.  We have no regrets even though this exchange surrendered exploration of World War sites.

These landmarks are still quite prevalent throughout Orkney.  Point in case, Galtness Battery on the north of Shapinsay island (population 307) was visible from the deck of the MV Varagen on our day trip to Eday.  

Military installations have a uniformity to them, and Galtness Battery is little different than a number of these military landmarks. The MV Varagen hugged Shapinsay's west coast on its scheduled Thursday morning run to Whitehall on Stronsay before landing at Backaland on Eday, our destination that morning.  

Most notable from a distance off shore, is the observation tower at Galtness.  Its upper floor had a flat projecting roof, apparently concrete, that must have provided cover for the watch.  The tower would have been used to spot and direct battery fire.  Below its upper level was an open front room toward the sea.  This apparently held the battery's searchlights.  Adjacent buildings were also visible, one of which is said to have been the engine room (for providing electricity) and possibly some barracks. 

The tower overlooks Wide Firth channel at the approach to Kirkwall between Shapinsay and Gairsay (a small islet of 590 acres, population 3).  [For historical perspective, Gairsay's population in 1838 was 69.]  Directly west of Galtness Battery is Grass Holm (perhaps as much as 90 acres in extent and now uninhabited) and Taing Skerry (essentially rocks that are just above sea level).  The ferry channel to Backaland runs between these two geologic features.

Galtness Battery was initially armed in May 1940 with a 12 pounder (76 mm shell--rate of fire 15 rounds per minute). These guns were old, from WWI, but still in use for coastal defense in WWII.  They were mounted to combat the menace of German U-Boats and fast attack surface E-Boats.  The 12 pounder is manually traversed and elevated.  It had an inadequate rate of fire against fast moving surface attack vessels.  So, the old gun at Galtness was replaced by a new quick firing twin 6 pounder (57 mm--rate of fire 72 rounds per minute) in March 1941.

Some reorganization of the Orkney batteries was done.  Galtness was designated 148 Battery and was manned by some 250 soldiers from the 535th (Orkney) Coast Regiment.  By 1943, the threat of German attacks on Orkney had lessened.  Coastal units were drawn down given a great need for trained gunners on other battle fronts.  Then in April 1944 in preparation for the Normandy invasion, the Orkney coastal regiment was further reduced.  Batteries would become manned by Home Guards.  

At the end of the War, many in the Orkney Regiment were reassigned to infantry, and sent as occupation forces to Europe.  The 535th Regiment was officially disbanded on 1 January 1947, and the guns at Galtness were dismounted.  The battery installation was left to the elements and time.