Gurness--in the spirt of St. Peter and Granny

As Granny said more than once, "Always put your best foot forward."  To this day I am uncertain as to the specific meaning of that saying.  In translation, I suppose it falls within the Golden Rules class of rules.  The norms, the mores.  I take it to mean:  behave in public.  

Broch of Gurness tower ruins Easter Sunday 2022

She also said in a somewhat more risque rule:  "If they're looking that close, they deserve to see something."  That one I get, although admittedly it most likely is apocryphal, a nudge or two outside the  Golden Rules.  That may be why, of all her sayings, that particular one has stuck with me.  

An inherent conflict exists between these two, though, which presented itself in plans to attend Easter service at St. Magnus Cathedral in Kirkwall.  Here an explanation (or perhaps a confession), may be de rigueur.  

Quern above stone cistern, Gurness Easter Sunday 2022

In front of our Orkney excursion, I sent an email to Minister Macnaughton of St. Magnus Cathedral, expressing interest in attending Easter Mass.  The conundrum in that "best foot forward" rule just mentioned, however, meant we were uncertain regarding acceptable attire for the Holy day.  

Neither of us wanted to detract from the cathedral service by showing up half-wild, muddied and in clothes ridden hard by a week's worth of wandering Scotland's North Isles--that old hymn of Just as I Am notwithstanding.  

Minister Macnaughton sent a very kind reply.  "We have no dress code, end of story."  From the sound of it, he too heard the apocryphal axiom from Granny.  He also mentioned a baptism to be held on Easter Sunday.  That tidbit probably affected our decision.  It added to our apprehension, as we did not wish to intrude.  Irreverently put, if we showed up muddied--i.e. not on our best foot--the congregation might rightly have said:  "Hey, what about those two?  Looks like they could use a bath too."    

Storage(?) room Gurness Easter Sunday 20222

Ultimately, we opted instead to visit the Broch of Gurness and continued our unmolested roughcast pilgrimage of ancient Orkney sites.  It was a tough itinerary decision because it meant going back on my word; specifically, we were a no show.  Not exactly best foot forward either.

In retrospect, visiting the Broch of Gurness was the better option.  As excuses go, we considered it being out in the "cathedral" of the natural environment.  But the truth is, I did not have the heart to tell the pastor of our change in itinerary.  Regardless, we did not have email capability in Orkney, so I couldn't.  That works as an excuse as well.  If not, I have a few more.

Iron Age village Broch of Gurness on Eynhallow Sound, Easter Sunday 2022

Spending the better part of Easter morning at Gurness and at another nearby ruined broch, once we got back to Kirkwall we did slink into St. Magnus Cathedral along with a number of other Kirkwall Easter tourists to view the cathedral's splendor from the edge of the crowd, in a manner of speaking.  So, maybe just call me Simeon Peter now that the rooster has said his piece.

As for Gurness, what a remarkable site perched on the edge of Eynhallow sound.

Wall interior(?) at Gurness, Easter 2022

That Easter morning we had Gurness mostly to ourselves, though it was staffed by a Historical Scotland ranger with whom we engaged in conversation for nearly a half hour or more.  (And yes, they were collecting admission fees.)  By the time we left Gurness, aiming for a separate walk along Eynhallow Sound out to a ruined broch (the Knowe of Stenso), several groups were starting to come in.  So, our timing was impeccable. 

At Gurness, not only is there the Iron Age broch and village but also foundations remain of a Pict settlement consisting of something like six structures at the site.  These are worth noting, and are found when you first enter the site.  Pict settlements are uncommon; or rather, they are not commonly uncovered, which seems most odd.  The Picts are an enigmatic people, considering they inhabited and ruled Scotland for several centuries or more.  Why they left such a paucity in the archeological record, relative to other people in Scotland, is not known.

Interior stairs to broch tower walls, 2022

Around the broch tower, an Iron Age settlement had been built. Easily 20 or more dwellings, many with hearths and foundation courses of bedrooms or sleeping quarters, main rooms, ovens and so on.  Protected by the broch tower, Gurness village also had fairly extensive earthworks which are, by themselves, quite impressive.    

In all, Gurness is a significant site.  It is well-signed with explanation boards.  We probably spent at a minimum a couple hours just exploring the Gurness ruins.  It is quite an interesting site, one that is whole heartedly recommended for those visitors who may venture outside Kirkwall.

Most visitors, particularly those debarked from cruise ships at Kirkwall, will visit the Neolithic stone circles at Stenness and Brodgar.  But it would be a mistake to not take in Gurness which is nearby Kirkwall.   

 

Dwelling adjacent to Gurness Broch walls, hearth and "rooms" Easter 2022

 

Kiln or ovens(?) Gurness village Easter 2022

 

Informational boards at Gurness, Easter 2022

 

One last note regarding "best foot forward".  As trite as it may seem, we try to represent Idaho with propriety while in Scotland, mindful that we not be perceived as the "ugly American".  Like it or not, Americans are often easily recognizable when traveling overseas.  With that identity comes a certain amount of responsibility, not the least of which is to be careful in archeological sites like Gurness to mind the cordons like the one shown on the photo above of the stairs into the interior broch walls. 

Too many fellow countrymen seem to go out of their way with loutish behavior, relishing tactlessness if not notoriety when abroad.  Whatever limited enjoyment they generate for themselves by deliberately creating a scene becomes a self fulfilling typecast.  Doubtless, these same Americans complain about coldness shown to them while overseas.  Yet at the same time they will broach an almost insulting rudeness to their hosts.  This is evident not only in the cramped confines of a transatlantic flight going over, but also in pubs and even historical sites while there.  That tain't "best foot forward" a'tall.     

One wonders why they bother to travel if they care so little about in situ culture. 

Iron Age "chalking" to weather proof against wind at Gurness Easter 2022