Missed it in plain sight

As mentioned, Friday is "landing day," more or less consumed by travel connections that move us from the transatlantic gate at Glasgow--whether by bus, or train, or an internal commuter flight--to the vicinity of where we plan to start exploring.  Typically, on landing day we "go long" and then work our way back to Glasgow over our two week sojourns.  Landing day is not necessarily a complete "write off" since views from public transport are often interesting.  But still...it's a staging day.  Logistics we'll call it.

April 1, 2023--Castle Vale Park on the Tweed at Berwick

Our Friday evening arrival at Berwick Station aboard the LNER (London North East Rail) via Scotrail through Edinburgh Waverley had us packing part way across town to Sandgate, where our hotel room and a delayed dinner awaited us.  Tired and hungry.  With what remained of landing day, our objective was to walk to the hotel, find someplace to eat, and then recover the jet lag. 

April 1, 2023--View toward Town Hall from Marysgate, Berwick

Under an intermittent drizzle, our walk took us through Berwick's Elizabethan walls at Marysgate.  A neat architectural site, we resolved to explore it the next morning with more light, a little rest and, we hoped, less rain.  We did...but not necessarily with less rain.

April 1, 2023--Berwick at Marysgate and Jubilee Fountain

April 1, 2023--Berwick

Honestly it was surprising how quickly we reached Marysgate on foot from the station.  Not at all far.  In total, the walk from the station to our hotel was perhaps 8/10ths of a mile...a mere 15 to 20 minutes.  Even the damp weather was no big a deal considering we were on the coast of the North Sea in late March.  Nothing our parkas couldn't handle.

An aside but locals quip (or perhaps snipe) that Americans will take a taxi even to go only a block or two.  While the implication is laziness, actually the affinity of American tourists to take a cab may be due more to their not bothering with any advance map work.  

Perhaps it's a Scout thing with me, but personally:  Be Prepared.  It is also surprising how much trouble just keeping that motto can avoid...and maybe even save some cab fare that might be better invested in a pint.  

April 1, 2023--Berwick

 

Ignoring preliminary orientation work is not exactly the smartest way to "vay-cay".  For one thing, it makes you lost as soon as you land.  Berwick has its share of quirks and box canyon alleys being a city that sits on top of a medieval town plan.  Even just knowing the names of the main streets in advance can help prevent confusion.  

Here, the word "city" is also key, especially for rural bumpkins.  Cities have many residents, not all of whom are generous with their directions should you find yourself lost without a clue in an unfamiliar foreign cityscape.  Berwick is not Chicago, of course; but still.  

Keep in mind your pack is obvious.  So too is the omnipresent cell phone.  Photo taking in the attire of a foreign tourist...usually signals the possibility of carrying a good bit of local currency.  So, just saying.  Do your due diligence.  Research your maps before you get in a place where you don't want to be.    

April 1, 2023--Tyme Bar & Grill

We reached the hotel after our cross town walk from the train station without incident and considered an adventurist culinary option.  Several local eateries and pubs were near the hotel.  The temptation was to do the "sturm und drang" thing, pub-hop and sling pints.  "We have arrived!"...as if locals are interested in that.  

For simplicity's sake (and the fact we were quite beat at the tail end of "Landing Day") we opted to dine at the hotel.  It was the right decision.  A pint or two in a local pub the next evening (after catching some sleep) is usually more conducive to a better time anyhow.  Premier Inn (Tyme Bar & Grill) has a decent menu, reasonably priced, and generally well-prepared.  They also have a few drafts on tap...and at the end of those pints, it's only an elevator ride up to the room.  A low stress way to end "landing day". 

April 2, 2023Tyme Bar & Grill

In our walk from the rail station to Sandgate (which also helped orient us in Berwick), one landmark was of particular interest--the Elizabethan gate (Mary'sgate) and the Jubilee Fountain.  Walking, we were watching for it as a way marker of sorts, confirming our footsteps.

Jubilee Fountain was erected at Marysgate to honor Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee (60th anniversary of her monarchy).  Presented to Berwick June 20, 1897, the fountain is made of pink granite with bronze lion well heads.  By itself, Jubliee Fountain is worth a pause to view, to say nothing to its location at the Elizabethan fortifications and city gate (at Meg's Mount).   

April 1, 2023--Berwick Barracks Museum and Holy Trinity churchyard

A plaque states that the fountain was donated by Commander Francis Martin Norman, Royal Navy.  Commander Norman apparently was quite the public servant in Berwick.  Upon retiring from the Royal Navy, he went on to be the town's Sheriff, Mayor, Alderman.  He also established the Historic Monuments Committee, which was largely responsible for restoring Berwick's Elizabethan fortifications.  Present preservation of Berwick's historical walls and paths is thus owed in large measure to Norman.

April 1, 2023--Berwick at Marysgate bridge

The Jubilee Fountain is an example of our "missing it"...in plain sight.  We knew the fountain monument was there from our research.  What we missed was a key link to Berwick's history.  And because we missed it, we did not visit a site that we otherwise would have--namely, Holy Trinity Church.  One cannot see or know everything, of course.

April 1, 2023--Holy Trinity Church and churchyard, Berwick

The fountain's benefactor, Commander Norman, also had a memorial plaque at Holy Trinity Church in Berwick.  That was the link we missed.  Had we known (i.e. done a better job at researching), it is probable we would have connected that link and would have visited the interior of Holy Trinity Church.  For one reason, Holy Trinity was right on the walk path along Berwick's walls, and we were right there.

The church dates to 1641, when King Charles I allocated monies to replace Berwick's old medieval town church (c. 1190 A.D.).  The earlier medieval church in the current church grounds was pulled down after Holy Trinity was completed after 1652, from designs by the London stone mason John Young.  Holy Trinity was built from stone and timber pirated out of the ancient Berwick Castle (c. 1250 A.D.)

April 1, 2023--Berwick Castle ruin and Victorian rail bridge over Tweed

During the initial funding of the church, civil war broke out which pitted Charles I against the parliamentary armies of England and Scotland.  Charles I lost the war, and his head.

April 1, 2023--Berwick Walls path

Holy Trinity Church is a rare building.  One of only four significant churches built in the whole of Britain during the iconoclast Oliver Cromwell's Protectorate (Commonwealth) of England.  That alone makes Holy Trinity notable architecturally.  The Cromwellian regime, strongly puritanical, influenced British architecture.  Holy Trinity was no exception.  It was of simple design, to the point of being plain but with a mixture of Gothic and Classical styles.  So, also somewhat eclectic.  No ornamentation, no bell tower (the town hall bell summoned the people to church services).  Lacking a tower or spire, Holy Trinity seemed "boxish" and uninteresting, at least from our perspective above it on the Berwick wall path.  We did not walk down to visit it, even though we were right there.  That was our mistake.  The interior is said to be remarkable.  And perhaps to the chagrin of Mr. Cromwell, stained glass (Flemish 16th century) that had been sequestered by Charles I was added to the church apparently in a remodeling in the 1800s.  Anyhow, the moral is:  Be Prepared.  You will miss less.