The issue with cruise line tourism

April 13, 2022  Quiet before the arrival of the cruise tourist hoard

Recent headlines regarding the negative impact of the massive industrial-scale tourist cruise ships heaving up quayside in Scotland prompted a quick search back into the blog.  I knew I had addressed it.  See: https://whitleyworldtravel.blogspot.com/2022/04/orkney-demographics-change-is-coming.html 

The original article dealt with Orkney's demographics, not cruise ships per se.  But, after witnessing the first of the annual exodus of massive cruise ships to dock in Kirkwall in 2022, I could not help but interject a  dismissive observation...namely, "A growing local debate is taking place as to whether the highly touted benefit of cruise ship visits to the local economy even offsets the costs." 

April 13, 2022  Polar exploration ship Spitsbergen opens the season at Kirkwall

Recent headlines reviewed the impact of the evermore massive cruise ships.  Last year, the report cited Carnival's fleet of 63 ships (the heavy weight in industrial-sized cruise lines) as being responsible for more sulfur oxide pollution in 2022 than all of the cars in Europe combined.  A billion cars.  That's a lot.  Carnival, the world's largest cruise line, was also responsible for producing more carbon dioxide than the entire city of Glasgow.  Startling data by any comparison.

But Miami-based Carnival is not by itself, of course.  There's also MSC Cruises and Norwegian Cruise Lines.  And there's also slightly more responsible cruise line companies like Hurtigruten and Disney Cruise.  There's profit in it no doubt; but to what effect?

Cruising is one of tourism's fastest growing sectors.  From a mere 21 vessels in the 1970s, the sector has exploded to 515 today...a 24-fold increase.  Ships themselves have more than doubled in size, and they're still growing.  Worse, the issue is not just air pollution; it's also sewage treatment and water quality, to say nothing of solid waste disposal.

Transport & Environment, Europe's leading advocate of clean energy, issued a damning report on the industry.  The cruise tourist system is stretched.  And it may be breaking in the not too distant future.  Venice, for example, has banned large cruise ships.  Several other ports are considering following suit.  The result, at least in Venice, was an 80% reduction in air born pollutants.  So it is possible to address the problems...if there is a will to do so.     

Personally, the market has all the appearance of being saturated.  Mature, in a word, to the point of being a routine boom-bust cycle.  In any case, what with 5,600 to 7,000 fellow tourists in tow, it's not exactly like "getting away from it all".  You sort of bring 'em with you.  Citing the earlier blog post, "It is becoming clear that "industrial scale tourism" is not all it has been cracked up to be." 

April 13, 2022  square wake leaving Kirkwall and the Spitsbergen on Earl Thorfinn

Merry Christmas to all

I wish to extend the warmest of Christmas greetings to our readers, with hopes for a prosperous New Year.  

The old year 2024 is fast winding down.  (Some say fortunately.)  Beyond doubt, many changes have occurred over the past year, the outcomes of which will only be made known by living the consequences of our respective choices as the future inevitably unfolds.  I am no soothsayer, and make no revelations. Let it be, in other words.

Meanwhile, it is appropriate to attach a photograph along with these greetings.  I chose one of the Nativity, taken of a carved oak panel found in the at Traquair House Chapel, Innerleithen, Scotland.  Hidden stairways and priest holes notwithstanding, the chapel at Traquair only dates from the mid-19th century with the passage of the Roman Catholic Emancipation Act of 1829. 

April 3, 2023  Traquair Chapel panel

The panels (there are 12 of them), however, are of Flemish origin, dating to the early 1500s.  Brought back to Scotland by craftsmen touring the Low Countries, they are said to have first been installed in Bishop Lamb's chapel in Leith (i.e. "Queen Mary's Chapell in Leith"), Edinburgh, until they were supposedly acquired by the Charles Stewart, 5th Earl of Traquair (1697-1764) for 20 guineas.

The panels are said to have been whitewashed over, hidden during the Reformation period, though that seems unlikely given the late date.  In any case, the panels were not publicly displayed in Traquair Chapel until the late 1800s.  Scripture reminds us:  "Is a lamp brought in to be placed under a bushel basket or under a bed, and not to be placed on a lampstand? For there is nothing hidden except to be made visible; nothing is secret except to come to light."  Mark 4:21-23.

That is a whole other story.  For now, though, may this be a joyous Christmas season filled with abundant blessings throughout the coming year.      

 

 

 

 

Reverse persecution--priest holes

April 23, 2019: Defaced cross, Lamlash Parish, Arran

Over the course of two millennia since its founding, the Church (or to be specific, the Roman Catholic Church) has had more than its ample share of initiating:  persecutions, inquisitions, excommunications, the rack...and burning at the stake.  So too, eventually, the Puritans with their iconoclasm...and witches.   

Considering damages done by the iconoclasts to precious religious artwork and sculpture, that is difficult to square by today's more enlightened standards.  It's a Taliban type of thing...iconoclasts, persecution and burkas.   

The first "official" inquisition (actually a synod condemning various heretics) was initiated in 1184 by Pope Lucius III.  As for inquisitions though, he did not live long enough to carry them out.  He only served about two years.  

April 16, 2019:  Defaced Kilmichael Cross, Kilmartin

The prize of instituting the first inquisition must go to one of his successors, Pope Innocent III, from 1209-1229.  The Papacy was beset by a constant flux at the end of the 12th century.  Destabilizing, in a word.  

Popes rolled over as quickly as the College of Cardinals could mint them--Pope Urban III (1185-1187); Pope Gregory VIII (1187, only two months); Clement III (late 1187-1191); Celestine III (1191- early 1198); and finally Innocent III, who served some 18 years (1198-1216) and is known, for better or worse, for expanding the scope of the Crusades...including the sack of Constantinople, a Christian albeit Eastern Orthodox empire.

Begun in Languedoc in present day southern France and known as the Albigensian Crusade, or Cathar Crusade, it quickly took on an air of mercenary adventurism.  Pope Innocent III declared a crusade against the Cathars, offering lands of Cathar "heretics" to any French nobleman willing to take up arms..."Thou shalt not covet" notwithstanding.  There were plenty of takers.   

The Cathar crusade expanded the French crown at the expense of neighboring Languedoc.  It was a power play of sorts--eliminate competitors.  Pope Innocent III claimed supremacy over Europe's Christian states, as the most powerful of all medieval Popes.  As a matter of routine, he used the interdict to ban or censure, to compel his decisions, get his way.  Yes, he solidified medieval canon law...but there is always a price. 

April 3, 2023 Queen Mary of Scots rosary; Traquair House

An inquisition was a systematic persecution of non-Catholic Christian religions in Europe.  Arguably, it might be said that the first true inquisition dates nearly a thousand years before Innocent III.  To the late 3rd century and Arianism (256-336 AD), which was declared a heresy.  (If truth be known, inquisitions probably date back to the Apostles themselves, ever bickering.)

April 3, 2023  The cradle that rocked future King James VI/I; Traquair House

But that a "reverse persecution" would eventually supervene in the form of Oliver Cromwell's iconoclastic Roundheads, during the English civil war (c. 1650s), almost makes one want to belt out a rousing stanza of "Don't Cry for Me Argentina" (Julie Covington, "Evita" concept album, 1976).  Almost.

Suffice it to say that there were persecutions aplenty.  More than enough blame to go round.

April 3, 2023  A hidden church; Traquair House

This brings us to a period in Scotland when religious strife was tearing the country apart--Protestant vs. Catholic.  Over several decades under the Scottish Reformation, the divide would finally come out in the open.  The early death of Frances II, the Dauphine of France and husband to Mary Queen of Scots (a devout Catholic), set the stage for fierce internecine battles.  

After Frances II's death, and having no place in France's succession, Mary sailed for Scotland in 1561 to take up its crown.  But having been away in France for 13 years (ever since the age of 5), Mary was not exactly Scottish anymore.  Much had changed.

The root of the conflict, of course, had its start with the English king Henry VIII, who set aside Catherine of Aragon to marry Anne Boleyn.  When the Pope (Clement VII) refused to grant an annulment, Henry split from the Catholic Church and founded the Church of England.  By the time Mary arrived from France in 1561,  Presbyterian lords held the reigns of power in Scotland. 

April 3, 2023  Priest's raiments; Traquair House

Despite apprehensions, Mary was actually fairly tolerant of the newly established Protestant ascendancy in Scotland.  It was one of self-interest perhaps, for it is said she had her eye on England's crown being the only surviving child of the Stuart King James V.  She did not wish to unnecessarily antagonize Protestant opinion south of Scotland's Borders.  But this put her at odds with Scottish Catholic parties, notably with George Gordon, 4th Earl of Huntly, who rose in rebellion in 1562 but was defeated at Corrichie, a one sided affair, on October 28, 1562...only a year after Mary had returned from France.

April 3, 2023  Inside family chapel; Traquair House

April 3, 2023  Priest Hole; Traquair House

Protestant Christianity, by the by, was not uniform (despite claims to the contrary) in its hostility toward the use of religious images and icons.  None other than Martin Luther taught of the "importance of images as tools for instruction and aids to devotion."  Luther was conservative.  His words, unfortunately, fell on the deaf ears of radicals.

Here perhaps a few words may clear up some confusion.  Though they were contemporaries, Mary Queen of Scots is not the same as Mary I, or "Bloody Mary" the eventual Queen of England. Born February 18, 1516 as the first born child and only survivor of Henry VIII and Catherine of Aragon, Bloody Mary was legitimate by all accounts.  The first undisputed Queen Regent of England from July 6, 1553 to her death November 17, 1558.  

"Bloody Mary's" reign is marked with a "vigorous" determination to reverse the Reformation, to return England back to Catholicism.  Once out, though, the genie is difficult to put back, after 20 years instituted by her father who first put aside Catherine of Aragon in divorce.  

Her sobriquet was well-earned--she burned 300 or more at the stake.  Protestants in England and Wales were summarily executed under legislation that punished any and all judged guilty of heresy against Catholicism.  Legislation particularly adopted burning.  Torture de rigueur, or avant-garde at any rate.  

April 3, 2023  Traquair House

Goes around, comes around.  It would then be Catholicism's turn to be a hunted faith with the death of Bloody Mary.  Her half-sister, Protestant Queen Elizabeth, came to the throne.  Given Catholic resistance early in Elizabeth's reign, her legislation became increasingly draconian.  And it would be priests who were imprisoned, tortured and killed as "pursuivants," or priest-hunters, sought those inclined to Mass.  

April 3, 2023  Priest Hole stair; Traquair House

"Priest Holes" were made in response.  Priest Holes were hiding places, typically built in houses of the wealthy in fireplaces, attics, building alterations, under the floor boards, and especially staircases from about 1570 until roughly 1605 with the death of Elizabeth I.  Pursuivants would measure the "footprint" of the house and compare outside versus inside measurements to see if they tallied, tapping the walls and floors for any hollow sound.  All in all, Priest Holes were fairly effective, given declining numbers of priests who were executed over the next several decades under Queen Elizabeth.  That, or they just lost interest in the exercise altogether.

April 3, 2023  Traquair House grounds

With this, we share a few photos regarding "priest holes" and Traquair House, Scotland.  It is appropriate to include a line from Psalm 73 (and the 1571 medallion of the Spanish Inquisition).  The olive branch symbolizes mercy; the sword punishment.

April 3, 2023  Traquair House hidden stairwell

Again, there is more than enough blame to go around, Protestant versus Catholic; Catholic versus Orthodox (and thus Celtic).  I leave to Almighty God the determination of the rightness or wrongness.  We have certainly made many martyrs over time.  Whether through direct affirmation or indirect apathy.  All too many...on all sides.  Aye then.  "Arise, Lord, and judge your cause".