First Contact--Hebrides

Returning to Glasgow International from a quick walk through Paisley, we boarded the late afternoon FlyBe commuter flight out to Islay...Queen of the Hebrides.  [Note for those considering it:  after our Easter trip, several Hebridean air routes were put to competitive bid; LoganAir now operates the Islay route.]

March 21, 2017  Glenegedale Airport, Islay

Islay is a relatively large island, almost 240 square miles, with a population of perhaps as many as 3,500 residents.  Of Scotland's nearly 800 islands, Islay is one of their largest...fifth largest.  Now having two years of experience visiting the Inner and Lower Hebrides, it is fair to say that Islay is also one of the more productive islands...definitely pretty.

However large, still, it is an island.  And extensive infrastructure--like that for runways and roads--comes at a premium.  Glenegedale's landing strips run nearly out to the high tide line at Laggan Bay on The Strand.  Laggan Bay boasts of what is possibly the largest sand beach in the Hebrides...not that March is swimming weather in the North Atlantic.  It's an interesting airfield, in any case.

Our accommodations for our first couple nights on Islay were at Port Askaig, on the north side of Islay.  Islay Airport at Glenegedale is on the south side, approximately midway between Islay's two principal towns--Bowmore (Islay's administrative center) and Port Ellen (its heavy commercial ferry terminal).

Even if arriving as we did with the Spring Equinox (March 20, 2017), at over 55° North Latitude, travelers to Islay can run out of daylight fairly quickly.  A word to the wise.  

It turns out that this is particularly true in steep sided wooded corridors that have extremely tight (non-existent) shoulders, with no real fog lines and the pavement essentially abutting against field stack stone  walls, like those found around Bridgend.  

And that can, especially given the time of year, mean ice in shaded timbered drainages...which it did.  It can also mean heavy road maintenance trucks--sand and salt--and it did as well.  

Not only can one run out of daylight at 55° North latitude, one can run out of road fairly quickly too.  The things are narrow, even at their best...with an added bonus of tourist excitement at being off balance, driving from the starboard side while trying to fiddle with the dash in an unfamiliar car to find the wipers, headlights..and perhaps even a Rosary.

We arrived at Port Askaig intact; but our first motorized foray in Scotland was certainly not without its excitement.  Anyhow, to prove we made it, this photo was taken the following day at Port Askaig, our first destination after landing on Islay and having survived the "goofy footed" drive.   

March 22, 2017  Port Askaig  the Paps of the Isle of Jura in background

It should be said for those considering a visit to Islay that, for most tourist excursions, Islay's bus schedules are quite sufficient.  Our plans, however, called for visits to relatively remote sites (e.g. Dun Nosebridge, Kilkiaran, Kilnave, American Monument...).  These are not well served by public transportation.  In order to visit them, relying upon the bus would require appending several extra miles to each walk.  

It is not so much the additional walking distance.  Our Easter trips actually enjoy those "extra" steps which in many respects are an added bonus.  The place is pretty.  And presumably one goes there to do things, to experience and embrace them.  But we are pragmatic as well.  We have to be.  

With somewhat limited time on Islay in 2017, to see it, we opted to "car hire" at Islay Airport (doubtlessly placing every Islay resident a grave risk...or at least giving them something to talk about.)
  

March 22, 2017  Our brave little red Volkswagen "hire" at Kilchoman Church ruin, Islay

Again, the Islay buses are probably adequate for most tourist visits.  And actually they are for us, with an Idaho perspective, part of the fun.  Point in case, on Islay this Easter (2018) for a one day excursion--coming over to Islay from Jura--we only used bus transportation.  (And on Jura as well.)  We found them sufficient and frequent enough for our limited purpose in 2018 (visit Islay Museum in Port Charlotte and our friends in Port Ellen).


One final word regarding "car hires".  Some advance thought should be given about where you plan to "station" your rental (at a trailhead of a walking route, for example).  At times, given congestion in towns (parallel parking from the opposite side is...interesting), visitors might be better severed not having the encumbrance of an auto.

For outdoors excursions, normally, many of the better known sites (like the American Monument on the Oa) have what are called "Car Parks".  When provided, use them!  But there are also sites which have very few areas suitable for parking (Dun Nosebridge, for example.) 

March 22, 2017  View from the Iron Age fort of Dun Nosebridge above River Laggan 

Our ground level photo does not do Dun Nosebridge justice.  This aerial view is by www.islayblog.

Keep in mind, roadways in the Isles are narrow...and that shoulder over there may not be what American drivers take for granted.  That green shoulder often turns out to be peat...and this is particularly true in the Glenegedale area.   As the Scottish red road signs infamously put it--"Warning! Very soft verges".   

Squishy, spongy, wet...and often rather deep.  Peat is an interesting substance..  It certainly works well in the malting process; for vehicular traction...not so much.  Cars, however small, are still rather heavy.  They tend to sink when put to the test.

It bears mentioning that some folks have gotten lost in peat bogs, only to be found a few thousand years later and put on museum display.  Do not be one of those.  

Lastly, do not block agricultural gates with your "car hire"...unless you've got a penchant for museum displays.